Travelogue: Gettysburg National Military Park

Our trip to Gettysburg in mid-October was everything I had hoped it would be. 

We stayed at the Gettysburg Hotel, right smack dab in the middle of the town diamond (aka the town square) where Samuel Gettys established a tavern at the crossroads of roads from Baltimore and Philadelphia-Pittsburgh in 1760. His son James bought a bunch of land and subdivided it into lots and established the town that bears his name.

Fun Fact: the Gettysburg Hotel is catty-corner to the David Wills house, where Lincoln spent the night before he delivered the Gettysburg Address during the dedication of the national cemetery on November 19, 1863.

We arrived late on Monday afternoon, driving up from Harpers Ferry, and walked to dinner in the rain. Then, for the next three and half days, the sun shone, the breeze was light, and the air was fresh and clean.

One of the most fundamental things to know about Gettysburg before you visit is that there are monuments everywhere. The preserved battlefield is huge, and the Park Service and the Gettysburg Foundation (which runs the Visitor Center, including the museum) have worked hard to restore it in terms of vegetation and buildings to how it was on June 30, 1863, so you really can see how the topograghy informed the army commanders as they deployed their troops and armaments. 

But, there are monuments everywhere. Actually, most of the monuments are located where the regiments they commemorate saw fiercest action or accomplished something significant or were destroyed. Touring Gettysburg, you never forget that this is truly hallowed ground.

Speaking of touring Gettysburg, I read that the best way to get the most out of a visit, especially for a first visit, is to hire one of the licensed battlefield guides. I booked two two-hour tours--10 am to 12 noon--on consecutive days, with day 1 covering the battle on July 1 and half of July 2, and day 2 covering the rest of July 2 and July 3. As luck would have it, I booked with Phillip Musket, the guide featured in this YouTube video about what it takes to become a guide. He was absolutely fabulous, and he enabled us to make the most of our time in Gettysburg. 

We didn't have time to do everything I wanted to in just three and half days, but one of the most memorable experiences I had was walking the mile from Seminary Ridge to Cemetery Ridge, just as the Army of Northern Virginia did on the afternoon of July 3. I was the only person out in the field, which was a bit rough and boggy, but it was a very special time for me to really think about courage and conviction, patriotism, family, and home.

One final note, the museum is huge and fantastic. We spent time there Monday afternoon and Friday morning, but felt rushed and didn't really see everything they had on display. The movie they offer was excellent, but what blew me away was the Cyclorama. It is a 360-degree painting, done on curved panels, depicting "Pickett's Charge" from the afternoon of July 3. It was painted in 1880 by a French artist and was completely restored in 2008. I loved it so much that for my recent birthday my husband gave me a book with photos of all the panels so that I can study it to my heart's content.

Page from the Cyclorama picture book

Here's a smattering of images from our trip:

Outside the Visitors Center

Statues of John Buford and John Reynolds, saving the Union Army on July 1

John Burns, local defending his town

Confederate cannon on the mile-walk east

New York Cavalry Memorial

Union headquarters on the east side of Cemetery Ridge

Union cannon facing west