Travelogue: Harpers Ferry

 "...one of the most stupendous scenes in nature" Thomas Jefferson

Last week, after the JASNA AGM in Baltimore celebrating Jane Austen's 250th birthday with 950 of my closest friends, my husband and I drove up to Gettysburg, stopping at Harpers Ferry along the way. I kid you not, this was one of the best trips of my life--seeing scenes and countryside that I've read about since I was a teen. Except for a bit of rain on our first night, the weather was lovely--crisp in the morning, clear skies, and mostly sunny all day.

This post is devoted to Harpers Ferry--we only were there for a few hours, but I loved every minute of it.

The Appalachian Trail runs through Harpers Ferry

Harpers Ferry is an old town, first settled in the early 18th century, and the US armory was established there in 1799. It became a factory town for munitions and had a much larger population through most of the 19th century than it does now. John Brown famously attacked the armory in November 1859 in an attempt to instigate a slave uprising that would start the war to end slavery. While the uprising never materialized, John Brown's raid is generally considered the spark that ignited the Civil War. 

I had wanted to visit the Kennedy farmhouse where Brown and his family and recruits prepared for the raid, but it is currently closed to visitors. I recently reread Tony Horwitz's fabulous book, Midnight Rising, about John Brown and his mission to end slavery in the US, so visiting this area was very special.

It is at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, and there really was a ferry that was essential to commerce of the region until the railroads arrived in the 1830s, making it an important RR hub. Harpers Ferry changed hands many times throughout the four years of the Civil War and suffered so much destruction that it never fully recovered.

It is in a beautiful location and is absolutely worth visiting for the history and the scenery.

Memorial to John Brown

Engine House where John Brown and gang holed up until arrested

Harpers Ferry 

I had been worried about how things would work given the current government shutdown. I am happy to report that the Harpers Ferry Visitor Center was open and the buses that shuttle visitors to the town (virtually no parking in the town itself) were running. I asked the Park Ranger about his status, and he said that the governor of West Virginia authorized funding to keep the park open and the rangers paid, at least for a few weeks.

We were there on the Monday holiday of October 13, and I was happy to see lots of families there, learning about the history of the area and enjoying the beautiful scenery.

And yes, I did get to actually walk a portion of the Appalachian Trail as it runs through the town. We saw some hikers with packs, and I definitely felt the urge to join them!

Stay tuned for my post on Gettysburg. Too many pictures to sort through before I post on that part of the trip.